Living in Bangkok

Renting in Bangkok: An honest neighbourhood guide from someone who's actually lived in them

Sukhumvit, Silom, Ari, Thonglor, Ladprao — not the agency spin. What it's really like to live in each one.

In seven years in Bangkok, I've moved five times. Not because I'm restless — out of curiosity, out of poor judgment, and sometimes because the landlord decided to sell the condo without telling me. My first place was a studio in On Nut, 22nd floor, with a view of a construction site that lasted three years. The jackhammer kicked in at 7 a.m., Saturdays included. The agency had sold me on "an up-and-coming neighbourhood." Technically, they weren't lying.

Since then, I've lived in Silom, Ari, Thonglor, and Ladprao. I've also spent enough time crashing at friends' places in other areas to have an opinion. What follows isn't an agency guide. It's the stuff nobody tells you before you sign a twelve-month lease.

Sukhumvit (Asok – On Nut): the expat backbone

Sukhumvit is a catch-all term. It refers to a road that cuts across Bangkok from west to east for dozens of kilometres. When expats say "I live in Sukhumvit," they usually mean the stretch between Asok (BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit) and On Nut (BTS On Nut) — roughly the odd and even sois between soi 19 and soi 77.

That's where I started. The logistical convenience is real: BTS within walking distance, a 7-Eleven every 200 metres, restaurants at every price point, Tops and Villa Market supermarkets. You don't need to look for anything — it's all right there.

The flip side: it's noisy, it's concrete, it's congested. The even-numbered sois (south side) are often dead ends where cars pile up during rush hour. Soi 11 smells of warm beer and regret at 3 a.m. And above all, rents have skyrocketed. A decent studio between Phrom Phong and Thong Lo runs 15,000 to 22,000 baht. A passable one-bedroom and you're quickly looking at 25,000–35,000.

The further you go towards On Nut and Bangna, the lower the prices — and the more Thai life gets. In On Nut, a good new condo rents for 12,000–18,000 baht for a studio with a pool. That's the trade-off a lot of digital nomads and English teachers make. It's a fair deal.

My advice: If you're settling in Sukhumvit, visit the apartment at 8 a.m. on a weekday AND at 11 p.m. on a Friday night. The neighbourhood changes drastically between the two. And check the soi — some of them turn into giant car parks from 5 p.m. onwards, and your 200-metre walk to the BTS takes 25 minutes because the pavements are unusable.

Silom – Sathorn: white-collar Bangkok

I lived in Silom for a year, in an old condo on Soi Convent. The building was from the 90s, the carpet smelled of damp, but the location was unbeatable: walking distance to BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom, Lumphini Park for morning runs, and Thaniya for cheap Japanese food.

Silom-Sathorn is the business district. During the day, it's all suits and glass towers. In the evening, it empties out — except for Patpong and the surrounding streets, which have their own vibe, let's say. The upside: it's one of the few parts of Bangkok where you can live without a scooter or taxis thanks to the BTS/MRT network and having everything nearby.

Rents are steep on Sathorn (25,000–45,000 for a one-bed in a recent tower), but there are gems hidden in the old Silom buildings and on the perpendicular sois. I paid 14,000 baht for my 38m² on Soi Convent — because the building had no pool and the lift sounded like a submarine in distress. But I was happy.

Silom's downside: it's dead on weekends. It's an office district, not a living neighbourhood. On Saturday mornings, I felt like the last survivor in a post-apocalyptic movie.

Ari: the neighbourhood everyone talks about (and rightly so)

Ari is my current neighbourhood. I've been here for two and a half years, and I'm staying.

Why: it's a real neighbourhood. Tree-lined streets, independent cafés, morning street markets, family-run Thai restaurants at 50–60 baht a dish. BTS Ari connects you to the rest of the city. There's a Tesco Lotus (sorry, Lotus's) and a fresh market five minutes away. People walk their dogs in the evening. That sounds mundane, but in Bangkok, a neighbourhood where you can stroll peacefully at night without dodging motorbikes on the pavement is a rare thing.

The expat community in Ari is more low-key than on Sukhumvit — fewer bars, less nightlife, more families, freelancers, people who actually live here long-term rather than passing through for three months. It's a natural filter, and that's a good thing.

Rents: a studio between 10,000 and 16,000 baht, a one-bed between 15,000 and 28,000 depending on the standard. There are a few recent condos (The Line Phahol-Pradipat, Ideo Phahol-Chatuchak) with higher prices but modern amenities.

The downside: if you work in Sathorn or Asok, the BTS commute at rush hour is brutal. Twenty minutes standing, crushed, with the air-con set to "morgue." And Ari is starting to become a victim of its own popularity — rents creep up a little more every year.

Thonglor – Ekkamai: Instagram Bangkok

I lived in Thonglor for eight months. I had a nice place in a condo on Sukhumvit 36, a one-bedroom with a rooftop pool and a skyline view. On paper, the dream. In reality, I blew through my budget in three months.

Thonglor (Sukhumvit soi 55) and its neighbour Ekkamai (soi 63) make up Bangkok's trendy quarter. Hip restaurants, rooftop bars, brunch spots at 500 baht a plate, concept stores. It's pretty, it's photogenic, and it's expensive. Not expensive like Paris — but expensive for Bangkok, which kind of defeats one of the main advantages of living here.

A pad thai from a hole-in-the-wall on soi Thonglor: 70–80 baht. The same dish in Ari or Ladprao: 45–50 baht. Sounds trivial, but multiply that by three meals a day, seven days a week, and it adds up. And when your morning coffee costs 150 baht instead of 60, your budget blows up without you understanding why.

The other problem with Thonglor: traffic jams inside the soi are legendary. At rush hour, an 800-metre motorbike-taxi ride takes 15 minutes. On foot, the pavement is a joke — when it exists at all.

Who should live in Thonglor: If you're earning 100,000+ baht a month, you like going out, and your office is in the area. For everyone else, you'll get a better quality of life somewhere else for less money. It's a neighbourhood to visit, not necessarily to live in.

Ladprao – Ratchada: the Bangkok that blogs ignore

Nobody writes enthusiastic Twitter threads about Ladprao. That's a shame, because it's one of the best value-for-money areas in Bangkok.

The MRT covers the whole sector (Ladprao, Phahon Yothin, Ratchadaphisek). Central Ladprao is a massive mall with everything you need. Night markets on Ratchada (even if the most famous one has closed) and Isan restaurants at 40 baht a dish are everywhere. And above all: rents are gentle. A decent studio for 8,000–12,000 baht, a one-bed for 12,000–20,000 in a recent building.

The area is predominantly Thai, which means: less English spoken day to day, fewer "international" restaurants, but genuine immersion. If you're learning Thai, this is the place — you won't have a choice but to practise.

The downside: it's sprawling and not always pedestrian-friendly. Some zones require a scooter or regular motorbike-taxi trips. And aesthetically, it's raw Bangkok — no tree-lined sois like Ari, more concrete, power lines, and mechanic workshops.

The honest comparison

Neighbourhood Studio rent 1-bed rent Transport Street pad thai Vibe Thai language needed
Sukhumvit (Asok–On Nut) 12,000 – 22,000 ฿ 20,000 – 40,000 ฿ BTS + MRT 50 – 70 ฿ Comfortable expat bubble Almost none
Silom – Sathorn 11,000 – 20,000 ฿ 18,000 – 45,000 ฿ BTS + MRT + BRT 50 – 65 ฿ Business, quiet at night Low
Ari 10,000 – 16,000 ฿ 15,000 – 28,000 ฿ BTS 45 – 55 ฿ Urban village, chill Moderate
Thonglor – Ekkamai 14,000 – 25,000 ฿ 22,000 – 50,000 ฿ BTS (+ motorbike taxi in the soi) 65 – 85 ฿ Trendy, pricey, gridlocked Low
Ladprao – Ratchada 8,000 – 12,000 ฿ 12,000 – 20,000 ฿ MRT 40 – 50 ฿ Thai, real, raw Recommended

What I wish I'd known

When I landed in Bangkok in 2017, I did what everyone does: I typed "best area for expats Bangkok" into Google, read three articles probably written by people who no longer lived here, and signed a lease in Sukhumvit because it was the name I kept seeing everywhere. It wasn't a bad choice, but it was a default choice.

Here's what I wish someone had told me:

The perfect neighbourhood doesn't exist. Every corner of Bangkok has something that will drive you crazy — the noise, the traffic, the remoteness, the price. The question isn't "which is the best neighbourhood" but "which downside am I willing to put up with."

Never sign a 12-month lease without spending a week in the area first. Rent an Airbnb, walk around, eat locally, take the BTS at 8:30 a.m. on a Monday.